Art Institute of Chicago

Embroidered Fabric for a Man's Waistcoat Front

France

Date

1780s

Medium

Silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk thread in individual back, outline, running, satin, split and stem stitches; couching; laid work and French knots

Culture

France

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This length of white silk was designed to be cut into a man's waistcoat. European men wore waistcoats, or vests, with jackets and knee breeches. Fashion dictated that the design and color of the waistcoat fabric should contrast with the matching suit. (The back of the waistcoat, which is not included here, was typically made from a cheaper cloth since it was not visible when worn under the jacket.) The layout of the embroidered pattern pieces was planned to save fabric. The embroidery delineates the cut of the garment, including pointed pocket flaps, and forms small red and blue circles, which were intended as button covers. Colorful floral sprigs, bouquets, and delicate landscapes encircled by leafy wreaths produce a lively yet elegant pattern. Fabric needs to be kept taut while it is embroidered, so it is stretched on a rectangular frame, and it is easier to do this before the fabric is cut into the pieces of the garment.

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