Art Institute of Chicago

Millefleur with Medallions

Bruges

Date

1540-1560

Medium

Wool, cotton, and silk; slit and double interlocking tapestry weave Two distinct areas of weaving are present. The central field, bottom border, and lower medallion are woven with wool warps in slit tapestry weave. Warp: Count: 4–5 warps per cm; wool: S-ply of three Z-spun elements; diameters: 1.0–1.5 mm Weft: Count: varies from 12 to 32 wefts per cm; wool: S-ply of two Z-spun elements; diameters: 0.6–1.8 mm; silk: S-ply of two Z-twisted elements; diameters: 0.4–1.2 mm The entire side and top borders, the narrow spiral border on all four sides, the border corners, and the upper medallion are woven with cotton warps and multicolored element wefts in slit and (top border only) double interlocking tapestry weave. Warp: Count: 5 warps per cm. Cotton: Z-ply of three S-ply of two Z-spun elements; diameter: 1.0 mm Weft: Count: varies from 9 to 20 wefts per cm; wool: three to five yarns of S-ply of two Z-spun elements; S-ply of twelve elements of ten Z-spun and two S-ply of two Z-spun elements; diameters: 0.8–2.0 mm; silk: four yarns of Z-ply of two S-twisted elements; paired yarns of Z-ply of two S-twisted elements and Z-ply of three S-twisted elements; three yarns of two Z-ply of two S-twisted elements and one Z-ply of three S-twisted elements; diameters: 1.0–1.8 mm; wool and silk: three yarns of two S-ply of two Z-spun wool elements and one S-ply of two Z-twisted silk elements; three yarns of two S-ply of two Z-spun wool elements and one Z-ply of two S-twisted silk elements; five yarns of two S-ply of two Z-spun wool elements and three Z-ply of two S-twisted silk elements; six yarns of five S-ply of two Z-spun wool elements and one S-ply of two Z-twisted silk elements; diameters: 1.0–1.9 mm

Culture

Bruges

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

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