Art Institute of Chicago

Fragment

Probably Granada, Spain

Date

Nasrid dynasty (1230–1492), late 15th century

Medium

Silk, lampas technique; warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and patterning and self-patterning wefts;

Culture

Spain

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

Highly sought after in Islamic Spain, silk textiles such as this one are remarkable for their wide variety of designs and vivid color combinations. The design of this fragment is vibrant and sophisticated, setting an intricate geometric pattern against a lustrous satin-weave ground. The pattern joins white trilobed arches with a repeat design of green hop blossoms, stylized vegetal motifs, and yellow scrolling ornaments that recall the lush interior settings of the Alhambra, an extensive royal complex overlooking the city of Granada. These elements are closely connected to architectural decoration—especially stuccowork and wall tiles—and they were shared by potters, stucco carvers, and weavers. In impressive condition, this textile presents a clear sense of the luxury and splendor of Nasrid palace interiors. Indeed, weaving establishments were often attached to palaces and formed an important part of royal households.

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