Fragment of a Garment

Art Institute of Chicago

Fragment of a Garment

ChancayLinkedCulture matchlcp-02d86ff18499

Date
1000-1476
Medium
Cotton and wool (camelid), gauze weave with brocading wefts with border of slit tapestry weave; edged with plain weave extended weft loop fringe
Culture
Peruvian Central Coast
Department
Textiles
Institution
Art Institute of Chicago
Object ID
85273

Chancay weavers are known for their gauzes—like this headcloth in the Art Institute’s collection ( AIC 1984.121 ). But “gauze” does not simply mean a gossamer cloth; it can also refer to a specific woven structure in which the vertical warp threads are crossed. Here, the maker developed an innovative gauze weave by adding brightly colored, brocaded, horizontal wefts to the underlying brown gauze in order to create designs of interlocking seabirds with long beaks and skinny legs. The horizontal, tapestry-woven band at the bottom contains anthropomorphized waves, representing the shoreline where Chancay communities lived.

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Provenance & credit

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Credit line
Kate S. Buckingham Endowment
Provenance
Eduard Gaffron (1861–1931), Lima, Peru, from 1892 to 1912, then Berlin, from 1912 [History of the Department report (Joanne Behrens, 1985) and correspondence in curatorial file]; by descent to his children Mercedes Gaffron, Berlin then Durham, SC, and Hans Gaffron (1902–1979), Berlin then Chicago [correspondence and documentation of the Gaffron Collection in curatorial file]; sold to the Art Institute, 1955.

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Object type
AAT300014063

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