Art Institute of Chicago

Jinbaori

Japan

Date

Early 18th century

Medium

Wool, plain weave; fulled (gorofukuren); appliqué; edged with fur and silk, plain weave with secondary plain interlacings; lined with silk and gilt-paper strips, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; closure: wool plain weave, fulled; embroidered with silk cord; edged with silk and gilt-paper strips, plain weave; band of silk, plain oblique interlacing with attached wooden bead

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

Jinbaori were special coats worn by samurai, members of the Japanese warrior class. The garments were sleeveless and had a tall rear vent—to accommodate being layered over armor, while the wearer was on horseback. The potent graphics and high-contrast colors were meant to convey a message of strength from a distance. This striking example sends a powerful visual message in its depiction of breaking waves and flying spray, dramatically presented in silhouette in black and yellow, as well as in its use of bear fur lining the armholes. On the back of the coat is the circular crest of the Honda family, an important warrior clan loyal to the ruling Tokugawa family (ruled 1615-1868).

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