Minneapolis Institute of Art

Red battle surcoat with crest and lining with floral design

Japan

Date

around 1800

Medium

Cloth: napped wool (rasha), silk, lining: silk, metallic thread

Department

Asian Art

Institution

Minneapolis Institute of Art

This surcoat (jinbaori) is made of rasha, a precious material only available to the wealthy and powerful. Wool fabrics had to be imported from Mongolia or Europe, as Japan did not produce wool. The cut, a standard form in the late Edo-period, also shows European influences, as the A-line can be considered reminiscent of a Portuguese mantle. This sleeveless surcoat has a standing collar, large armholes, and a long opening on the back for better mobility when worn over the armor. The flaring lapel and the collar lining is made of green silk, patterned with colorful iridescent ornaments. The beige silk lining is embroidered with flower and leaf designs, and the shoulder is decorated with wool-colored felt strips applied with ornament made of diamond knurl. The vest is held in place with a waling. The back features a family crest designed in colored wool and red felt. It shows two bars in a ring (maru ni futatsubiki) and was carried by several families, most of them descendants of the Minamoto clan. This surcoat most likely was a Noh costume.

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