Art Institute of Chicago

Girdle (Belt)

North Italian

Date

c. 1325–c. 1375

Medium

Silver, gilding, basse taille enamel, on a modern velvet support

Culture

Northern Italy

Department

Applied Arts of Europe

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

Girdles or belts like this rare fourteenth-century example were important luxury accessories for men and women. Medieval and Renaissance fashion consisted of flowing gathers of fabric that were cinched at the waist. This long girdle would loop through a buckle, with the remaining length hanging with the costume. There are two silver-gilt fittings: a larger hook likely used to hold back the excess belt length, and another to carry small personal objects like a purse. Frequently given as betrothal gifts, girdle designs often feature heraldic emblems or scenes of courtly love. On this example, silver plaques are coated with a layer of translucent glass enamel—called basse taille —which reveals the images engraved beneath. Here they depict a lady in prayer, the profile of a man, and even fantastical beasts. With the long end swaying back and forth with each step taken by the wearer, it is no wonder that much of this fragile glass enamel is nearly lost.

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