Art Institute of Chicago

Cope

Venice, Italy

Date

c. 1500

Medium

Silk, satin weave cut pile-on-pile solid velvet

Culture

Venice

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This luxurious expanse of velvet is a cope, a type of priestly garment. Its high quality reflects the wearer’s status. The design of crowns, rosettes, and knots is created by two distinct heights of velvet pile, and the deep crimson color was probably produced by a costly dye derived from dried insects. At one time, it would have also had a richly embroidered band that outlined the front edges when draped over the priest’s shoulders as well as a decorative hood. Because its heaviness and volume restricted arm movement, the garment was worn mostly for processions. Walking in procession, a bishop or abbot carried a crozier like this ivory example. Its shape, that of a shepherd’s crook, signaled his pastoral duty to take care of his flock—the faithful.

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