Art Institute of Chicago

Akhnif (Man's Cape)

Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation

Date

Mid–19th century

Medium

Wool and cotton: wedge and slit tapestry weave; embroidered with wool and cotton in heavy chain, herring bone, interlacing, and stem stitches; twined and wrapped main warp cut fringe; added wrapped cut fringe and leather binding stitched with hemp

Culture

Morocco

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This akhnif , or cape, was handwoven by Amazigh women of the Aït Ouaouzguite region in southern Morocco, on a wide vertical loom and woven entirely to shape, beginning upside-down from the hood. Creating the large motif on the back side required precise control of vertical (warp) tension and complex horizontal (weft) turns in the weave to build a curve, techniques reserved for the most skilled weavers. Male artisans later added the leather binding and other finishes. The prominent motif—known locally as irghis n-ukhnif (“the red of the akhnif” or “eye”)—served both as the garment’s visual focus and as a protective sign centered over the wearer’s back. Akhnif cloaks were worn by both Muslim and Jewish men. —Hamza Alioua (Moroccan), independent scholar

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