Art Institute of Chicago

Woman's Spencer jacket

France

Date

c. 1800

Medium

Cotton, plain weave, hand-block printed; cotton lining

Culture

France

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

Beginning in the 1790s the prevailing fashion for light, sheer cotton gowns necessitated a range of accessories to keep women warm. The short Spencer jacket complemented high-waisted gowns such as this example in the museum's collection (AIC 2019.787.1) . The woman’s version was adapted from menswear and was probably inspired by the English second Earl of Spencer (1758–1834), who reportedly cut off the tails of a damaged coat and invented a new style. Short jackets were made of a variety of fabrics; this example’s block-printed cotton is a product of the French printing industry that was inspired by the global trade in colorful, Indian cotton fabrics.

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