Art Institute of Chicago

Kesa

Japan

Date

19th century, Edo period (1789–1868)/ Meiji period (1868–1912)

Medium

Silk; plain weave self-patterned by rows of gauze crossings, embroidered with silk

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

While this work may initially appear to be a decorative hanging showing various forms of marine life, closer inspection reveals that it is indeed a kesa pieced into a composition of seven columns. The embroidered decoration is not aquatic at all but rather consists of three varieties of motifs—a phoenix, Paulownia flowers and leaves, and the family crest of the Tokugawa family, which ruled Japan during the Edo period. From each of these motifs emerge three or four curving tendrils. Unpatterned areas were planned to fall in the folds when the kesa was worn.

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