Art Institute of Chicago

Kesa

Japan

Date

Early or mid–19th century, Edo period (1789–1868)

Medium

Silk and gilt-paper strip; twill and satin weaves with secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This attractive vestment is a good example of adaptive reuse. The pattern of the main fabric was originally used for hangings and furniture covers, and the presence of soil lines and mended areas suggests that this piece had been used as a cover. Multiple seams in the border fabric as well as the incorporation of the six squares in different material in place of—rather than on top of—the main fabric indicate that the principal fabric was in short supply and had to be pieced judiciously.

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