Art Institute of Chicago

Kesa

Japan

Date

Late 19th century, Meiji period (1868–1912)

Medium

Silk and gilt-paper strip; twill weave with secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts with couched plied silk; silk cords

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This vestment represents deluxe production that combines a complicated pattern with lavish materials. Round medallions containing a dragon or crane are set against a network of sinuous interlaced wisteria scrolls on a dense and rich gold ground of gilt-paper strip ( kinran ). The kesa survives in fine condition complete with its matching stole. A very similar robe, but with roundels containing pairs of birds, belongs to the Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.

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