Art Institute of Chicago

Kesa

Japan

Date

1750/1800, Edo period (1615–1868)

Medium

Silk; plain weave, embroidered with silk and gilt-paper-strip-wrapped silk; silk cords

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

This large kesa was made for use by either the Jodo or the Rinzai sect from an elaborately embroidered kosode , or kimono with small sleeves, that was worn off the shoulders and held at the waist by a belt or sash. Together with a sheer white kimono, it was part of the formal summer dress favored by women of the samurai class. The pattern of the kesa fabric consists of the symbols of riches and good fortune, the so-called treasures ( takarazukushi ). The gold thread was made of gilt-paper strips, but in this work, unlike kinran , the strips were cut extremely fine and wrapped around a silk core.

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