Art Institute of Chicago

Kesa (Formerly Nō Costume)

Japan

Date

18th century, Edo period (1615–1868)

Medium

Silk; twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts

Culture

Japan

Department

Textiles

Institution

Art Institute of Chicago

The fabric of this kesa was made from N̄ costume material probably woven at Nishijin, in Kyoto, for a wealthy samurai for a private theater. The allover pattern of colorful chrysanthemums was created in the kara-ori technique favored for N̄ costume fabrics, in which the long silk weft floats forming the pattern resemble embroidery. As with this kesa, upon the death of the owner the garment would have been donated by the family to her temple as a prayer offering to protect the deceased's soul, thus also bringing honor to the family for making the gift.

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